... for the technically inclined, WiFi stats from the Unify (model UAP-AC-M) to the PT 4K camera... ideally signal strength could be a little better, however I have a few trees impairing line of sight which is probably the issue... still performing at > 70Mbps which is more than adequate for my usage.
I suffer from spider intrusions regularly and have tried all the potions available on the market to help repel them, but within days (sometimes minutes and hours) they are back practising their acrobatics and tight rope walking creating massive white blobs on my monitor!
Having tried various potions, I tried a couple of things that seemed to eradicate spiders by 95% for 2-4 weeks.....
Good old WD-40 (blue can)WD-40 Silicon grease spray (silver/yellow can)
I spray it on the top of the camera housing and back mount. My cameras are wall mounted and slightly pitched down. For obvious reasons, spiders avoid it. Like most things, after time and weathering, it wears off and the good old bright white blob walking back and forth on the screen reminds me to go and spray again! (just a liberal coating, not dripping!).
I probably won't win any environmental awards....but it works!😁
🤧 Tip of the day.... When applying, hold a bit of scrunched up kitchen roll over the front (lens area) to avoid any wandering spray getting on it, otherwise a 30 second operation becomes 10 minutes trying to remove the smears!
Below is a Google Translate to English of Thomas's original post. I couldn't include Thomas's dropbox URL as the site won't let me post URLs. Check Thomas's original post for the URL.
since the blue status LED really annoyed me or is somehow counterproductive for monitoring and I didn't want to wait for the software update, I decided to take the camera apart.
A sticker doesn't really help, as the housing for the IR LEDs is translucent and it just shines through at the edges. A sticker that is too big will then cover the IR LEDS. Besides, it looks stupid.
So take the battery cover off and by the way under the white sticker is a mini USB port, which is also suitable for power supply. I think it's totally awesome if you like to hang up a power bank. Works flawlessly for me and you save yourself the expensive CR123A if you have the option. By the way, I use the Olight CR123A batteries there, you only have to loosen the casing a bit on the head, otherwise they will not come into contact.
5 screws must be loosened, then it is advisable to pry it apart with the plastic spatula that is included. You do that on the rubber seal. Carefully fold the back aside and detach the two power plugs from the mainboard. It is best to work with plastic tweezers or a spatula. If you are already at it, you can remove the other 4 connectors including antenna from the mainboard. Please be careful when doing this.
Then there are 4 screws at the top that have to be removed. The top and bottom are different. It is best to put them down with a system that you then know where to go again. the tips are the bottom two.
Then slowly lever out the mainboard with the spatula, preferably from below as it is plugged in there. it then folds up slightly because the connector from the IR LEDS is still there.
IMPORTANT DO NOT HANDLE THE SENSORS
Put the mainboard aside with the sensors facing up
now you can slowly and carefully pull out the lens unit. It is advisable to remove the protective transport sticker from the lens beforehand. then the lens unit pulls out more easily.
The IR ring is only fixed with 3 short screws, there is no screw in the top right. Then please pull the IR ring straight up and out.
below you can see a protruding LED, that is the status LED. These can be coated with Edding or latex paint. Otherwise you can put a thin, opaque film on the inside, where the LED is plugged into the housing. not too big, otherwise you will cover the IR LEDS. Then carefully put the IR ring back on so that the film presses into the opening.
and now everything is reassembled the other way around.
So you can first suppress the flashing and permanent lighting of the status LED.
This is just a little how to do you do this conversion at your own risk. I do not take any guarantees or responsibility for it.
You can lose any warranty claims.
The pictures are all in the dropbox, as you cannot upload all of them here. please sort them by name, then it is chronological.
To follow up on my original post, and hoping others might follow suit... Here is what my installation process looked like.
The box that I used from Home Depot, linked in my original post.
I shaved off the external tabs and then painted them to more closely match the brickwork they were going to be mounted to.
Close up of the box. (I removed the gasket prior to painting)
I had to use different screws than what were supplied. The cameras come with small screws and plastic anchors that look like they're meant for drywall, and not really outdoor applications. I used what were essentially self-tapping metal screws.
I wrapped the back of the screws to prevent the cables from getting pierced and to act ever-so-slightly as a retainer.
I then mounted the boxes up on the house. I initially planned on using Tapcon screws, but ended up using big steel screws. They actually worked better in the pilot holes in the brick. (Previous to mounting the boxes, I drilled a hole in the top channel area to feed the ethernet cable.
It got a wee bit tricky at this point. I had to drill my hole to the inside of the garage and run the open ethernet cable through the hole, and then into the hole in the box. Only then could I crimp the RJ45 connector on to the cable. This was the slightly harder way of doing it because I didn't want to drill a hold large enough for the RJ45 cable to passthrough. My intent is to keep the box as weathertight as possible. Smaller hole; smaller area to seal. (I didn't get any pictures of this step.) Once that was done, I had to connect the entire cap/camera assembly, and then wind up those cables so I could screw the cap on. This was also kinda tricky to keep the gasket in place and not pinch the bundle of wires that wanted to push out from the inside. I plan on going back and spray painting the cable at some point. (Of course, masking off the wall behind it, and the front of the camera...just in case!)
Lastly, is the POE switch that I mounted in the top corner of my garage. There's very little extra wiring between it and the cameras. The switch then feeds back down to a hole going into my basement where it plugs into the primary router.
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