Posts made by ripdo_73317197038

A POE splitter may work as it has the proper ratings with the mic. The PoE splitter takes input from a PoE switch/injector, not from a camera.

My only thought on using a splitter was how can it pull enough current in for a 12v mic when the power needs to be higher for a PTZ camera? The splitter spits the power away from the ethernet cable taking only 12v for the mic, the mic cable then outputs the power into the input of the camera, but its only 12v not 48v, 22w for the camera?

Dan

@Bob

So is there not a POE splitter with a power loop through that will power both the mic and camera?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Security-Camera-Inline-Microphone-Through/dp/B00BIFTLOW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1531471241&sr=8-4&keywords=cctv+mic

Thanks, Dan.

I know this is a old thread, but I cant find a answer to how to connect one up? My 423 camera is using Poe so no other power is being used, how then do I power the mic if the camera is power by ethenet?

Thanks.

Hello

My Camera is a dome and is covering a wide area. The camera is over exposing whites. The Manual exposure controls do nothing?

Thanks, Dan
over-exposed-1.jpg

Hi Lisa.

There is no setting that works for night unfortunately, its either set its set to not trigger shadows, and reflections, but then it wont pick up people, or have it pick up people and get the unwanted false triggers such as car lights at night.

When we use a the motion based set up in such situations I would need to except all triggers but turn on notifications as I dont want to be woken up 20 times a night. Since I wrote this thread I have been trying Blue Iris, and I had to use several methods to get both true triggers and no false ones.

First thing was size of the object, this helped cut down false triggers from insects and cats. Next thing was contrast between the background and moving object. I had to set this at 100% sensitivity in Blue Iris otherwise people wearing black would not be picked up. Next level was Object detection settings which involved how many pixels a object must moved before a trigger takes place. To help with car lights which illuminate a large area I used a percentage setting for when a object exceeds a certain size. This helped a great deal as now I have a minimum object size, and a maximum object size. Anything outside these parameters will reset the trigger so it wont fire off.

Now we get to zone crossing. This one made a the final difference. I set the public path, lawn, driveway, house path to have different zones, and use cross zone setting to only have a trigger if a object or person move across one zone into another. Tree shadows that are moving in a given area can have its own zone and if used as a cross zone it dont matter how much activity goes on in that zone it wont trigger.

For Reolink cameras to really work well at night in busy locations they need to add the multiple zones, and multiple set up zones for different times of the day. They need to add cross zones, and object size settings. Having a sesitivity per zone would also make a huge difference. Using just pixel movment alone without PIR needs these settings.

Thanks, Dan

Hi

Thanks for your reply. Funny as it may not be I had got this camera because I had such a camera that does have both pixel and PIR detection, the Arlo Pro 2. It was a dam expensive trial but Netgear Arlo people had released a new firmware which totaly messed up the Arlo pro 2. My biggest issues was the motion zones randomly failed, when I say randomly I mean 1 day or night it could be fine, then next two days constant triggers even if I had made a trigger zone right off the screen and tiny, a car 15 meters away would trigger it, this was simply randomly failing to work at all, even ignoring people walking into the zones.

I didnt realise that this camera does not have PIR till yesterday, but I have only had this 2 days today. If the arlo pro 2 had it zones working I think id be fine as I like everything else about it. Iv been trying out Blue Iris demo but cant seem to get it to be sensitive enough at the moment, not sure how to set up yet. The way things are going with everything triggering it off it makes having motion triggers nothing more than a gimik as nobody can control the sun, shadows, and bugs so yes a time delay is the thing and maybe Blue Iris has this?

I would have got the Argus 2 but then found it dont support zones.

Dan

Hello

Its come to my attention that having only one set up for activation zones is not enough. Different times of the day may need different requirements such as at night the zones can get triggers that are fine during the day. Simply using sensitivity does not solve the issue as if you bring down the sensitivity to avoid false triggers than it effects true valid triggers.

Dan

Hello

I have the 422w dome camera. My main use is to have motion detection within a set zone trigger off only by people. Now do these cameras use PIR technology for heat, or just pixel motion? I had one trigger another another every time a car drives past, how do I reduce this problem, do I have the wrong camera?

Thanks, Dan

Hello

Im getting way over exposed areas when the sun is out, and I mean its only barly out and the road, and car is blown out yet rest of image is fine. I tried changing the exposure manual settings and no matter what value I put in it does nothing what so ever, in either can exposure changes during the day so auto setting should compensate better?

Dan
over-exposed.jpg

Hi

Got a 422w dome installed it today. While out I'm using my mobile data. When I wish to download I don't need a 5mp video just a med res will do. How can I set it up so I have the choice?

Thanks. Dan