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    Reolink Argus - Teardown - turn off the Status LED - hidden USB Port German

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    • der.kohli_43923489157
      der.kohli last edited by

      Hi,

      da mich die blaue Status LED tierisch genervt hat bzw zur Überwachung irgendwie kontarproduktiv ist und ich nicht auf das Softwarupdate warten wollte, habe ich mich mal entschlossen die Kamera auseinander zu nehmen.

      Ein Aufkleber hilft nicht wirklich, da das Gehäuse für die IR LEDS lichtdurchlässig ist und es dann an den rändern einfach durch scheint. Ein zu großer Aufkleber deckt dann die IR LEDS ab. Außerdem sieht das blöd aus.

      Also Batterie Deckel ab und nebenbei festgestellt unter dem weißen Aufkleber ist ein Mini USB Port, der auch zur Stromversorgung geeignet ist. Finde ich total genial, wenn man eine Powerbank ran hängen mag. Funktioniert bei mir einwandfrei und man spart sich, wenn man die Möglichkeiten hat, die teuren CR123A. Dort benutze ich übrigens die Olight Akkus CR123A, man muss nur ein Stück am Kopf die Ummantlung lösen, da sie sonst keinen Kontakt bekommen.

      5 Schrauben müssen gelöst werden, dann empfiehlt sich mit dem Plastikspatel der dabei ist, es etwas auseinander zu hebeln. Das macht ihr am Dichtungsgummi.
      Klappt die Rückseite vorsichtig beiseite und löst vom Mainboard die beiden Powerstecker. Am besten mit einer Plastikpinzette oder dem Spatel arbeiten.
      Wenn ihr schon dabei seid, könnt ihr gleich die anderen 4 Stecker inkl Antenne vom Mainboard lösen. Dabei bitte immer schön vorsichtig sein.

      Dann sind oben noch 4 Schrauben, die müssen raus. Die oberen und unteren unterscheiden sich. Am besten mit System ablegen, das ihr danach wisst, wo sie wieder hin müssen. die spitzen sind die unteren beiden.

      Dann hebelt ihr das Mainboard mit dem Spatel langsam raus, am besten von unten da es dort gesteckt ist. klappt es dann leicht hoch, da dort noch der Stecker von den IR LEDS ist.

      WICHTIG
      NICHT AUF DIE SENSOREN FASSEN

      Legt das Mainboard mit den Sensoren nach oben beiseite

      jetzt könnt ihr die Linseneinheit langsam und vorsichtig raus ziehen. Es empfiehlt sich vorher den Transportschutzaufkleber von der Linse vorher ab zu machen. dann zieht sich die Linseneinheit einfacher raus.

      Der IR Ring ist nur mit 3 kurzen Schrauben fixiert, rechts oben ist keine Schraube drin.
      Den IR Ring dann bitte gerade nach oben raus ziehen.

      unten seht ihr einen raus stehende LED, das ist die Status LED.
      Diese kann man mit Edding, oder latexfarbe bestreichen. ansonsten könnt ihr auf der Innenseite, wo die LED am Gehäuse eingesteckt ist, könnt ihr auch eine dünne undurchsichtige Folie auflegen. nicht zu groß, sonst deckt ihr die IR LEDS ab.
      Dann vorsichtig wieder IR Ring aufstecken, so das sich die Folie in die Öffnung drückt.

      und jetzt wird einfach andersherum wieder alles zusammengebaut.

      So könnt ihr erst mal das blinken und Dauerleuchten der Status LED unterdrücken.

      Dies ist nur ein kleines How to do
      Ihr macht diesen Umbau auf eigene Verantwortung. Ich übernehme keine Garantien oder Verantwortung dafür.

      Ihr könnt dadurch eventuelle Garantieansprüche verlieren.


      Bilder liegen alle in der Dropbox, da man hier nicht alle hochladen kann.
      sortiert sie euch bitte nach Namen, dann ist es chronologisch.

      https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3w2sbdobzr2d5j0/AAAHEqaw3qOjgCexb0YboX5Qa?dl=0

      If anyone like to translate this little tutorial, feel free and thank you

      Thomas

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        • radioastronomy_410111540293820
          radioastronomy @der.kohli last edited by

          @der-kohli_43923489157

          Below is a Google Translate to English of Thomas's original post. I couldn't include Thomas's dropbox URL as the site won't let me post URLs. Check Thomas's original post for the URL.


          since the blue status LED really annoyed me or is somehow counterproductive for monitoring and I didn't want to wait for the software update, I decided to take the camera apart.

          A sticker doesn't really help, as the housing for the IR LEDs is translucent and it just shines through at the edges. A sticker that is too big will then cover the IR LEDS. Besides, it looks stupid.

          So take the battery cover off and by the way under the white sticker is a mini USB port, which is also suitable for power supply. I think it's totally awesome if you like to hang up a power bank. Works flawlessly for me and you save yourself the expensive CR123A if you have the option. By the way, I use the Olight CR123A batteries there, you only have to loosen the casing a bit on the head, otherwise they will not come into contact.

          5 screws must be loosened, then it is advisable to pry it apart with the plastic spatula that is included. You do that on the rubber seal.
          Carefully fold the back aside and detach the two power plugs from the mainboard. It is best to work with plastic tweezers or a spatula.
          If you are already at it, you can remove the other 4 connectors including antenna from the mainboard. Please be careful when doing this.

          Then there are 4 screws at the top that have to be removed. The top and bottom are different. It is best to put them down with a system that you then know where to go again. the tips are the bottom two.

          Then slowly lever out the mainboard with the spatula, preferably from below as it is plugged in there. it then folds up slightly because the connector from the IR LEDS is still there.

          IMPORTANT
          DO NOT HANDLE THE SENSORS

          Put the mainboard aside with the sensors facing up

          now you can slowly and carefully pull out the lens unit. It is advisable to remove the protective transport sticker from the lens beforehand. then the lens unit pulls out more easily.

          The IR ring is only fixed with 3 short screws, there is no screw in the top right.
          Then please pull the IR ring straight up and out.

          below you can see a protruding LED, that is the status LED.
          These can be coated with Edding or latex paint. Otherwise you can put a thin, opaque film on the inside, where the LED is plugged into the housing. not too big, otherwise you will cover the IR LEDS.
          Then carefully put the IR ring back on so that the film presses into the opening.

          and now everything is reassembled the other way around.

          So you can first suppress the flashing and permanent lighting of the status LED.

          This is just a little how to do
          you do this conversion at your own risk. I do not take any guarantees or responsibility for it.

          You can lose any warranty claims.


          The pictures are all in the dropbox, as you cannot upload all of them here.
          please sort them by name, then it is chronological.

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        • Halls Manor_43124311168
          Halls Manor last edited by

          Even though i do understand why you did it, you have now void your warranty if you have any issues with the cameras now, Reolink does not have to repair it or replace it. Which is a very bad idea.

          If anyone wants to do this just bare in your warranty will be void.

          If Reolink is going to do something about the led i am sure that will be just a simple line of code and then issue an update.

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          • der.kohli_43923489157
            der.kohli last edited by

            I know, that i lost the warranty. I write it in the description. 🙂
            People make teardowns of IPhones etc. to show what is possible.
            I open my iPhone 4 to build a lightning Logo. This little changes, make good thinks perfect. Not for everybody but for me.
            I have so many thinks, apps, tools, that with a little change in the code would be perfect. The most company's never change it.

            A security cam, that everybody see, is in my eyes not good. At my garden, I see the led in the night.

            And if I can help only one person, with this tips, I am happy 🙂

            i will buy more of this great cams, but not with this Led. With this little change for me, I can order more cams.

            Warranty is for me also not interesting, I am in Germany and send it back to China is extremely expensiv. If a cam is Dead on arrival, was the only point I will be angry, but my five cameras work great.

            Next time, I will look to change the microphone. I like the quality of Arlo Pro Sound. But this is in Winter, now I enjoy the summer.

            Sorry für my Bad englisch

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            • Bob_30281727886
              Bob last edited by

              Thanks for sharing. I agree with christianjohn. By the way, your English is better than most English native speakers 🙂

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              • Alfalfa_49505873238
                Alfalfa last edited by

                this is very interesting and enlightening. something to be learned here other than voiding warranty.

                danke herr der.kohli for sharing!

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                • Guest
                  Anonymous last edited by

                  Seeing the light can also be a deterrent, just like posting signs on your property that you have video cameras. The reason I want to be able to turn off the light, is to save precious battery power.

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                  • Alfalfa_49505873238
                    Alfalfa last edited by

                    ...also, what is that hidden USB port for? does that mean we can use external power source if we decided not to use the expensive batteries? or is that dedicated for other uses?

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                    • der.kohli_43923489157
                      der.kohli last edited by

                      Yes, you can use a powerbank or charger.

                      I use a 5V/2000mAh Charger and Powerbank and it works fine.
                      I like it at the time where I install the Cams or for Indoor using.

                      The other things are for programming etc.

                      I have not testet to put it on a PC. I am not a Hacker 😉

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                      • Bob_30281727886
                        Bob last edited by

                        Hi communities,
                        The micro-USB port in the battery compartment can be used to power the camera (5V 2A) although it was not designed for this exact purpose. It's for debugging in the manufacturing process. Reolink Argus is an outdoor camera and powering in that way may incur elements and water getting in and in turn cause irreversible damage to the camera. This kind of damage is not taken as within warranty from Reolink.

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                        • tonliner_53665556469
                          tonliner last edited by

                          Hallo @der.kohli

                          Behält die Kamera das Setup, wenn per USB Betrieb
                          der Strom abgeschaltet wird oder muss jedes mal das Setup gemacht werden?

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                            • der.kohli_43923489157
                              der.kohli @tonliner last edited by

                              Hallo @der.kohli

                              Behält die Kamera das Setup, wenn per USB Betrieb
                              der Strom abgeschaltet wird oder muss jedes mal das Setup gemacht werden?



                              Ja, das behält sie natürlich 🙂

                              Viel Spaß, bevor du deine aber öffnest oder bearbeitest, teste sie. Habe gerade eine die ein unscharfes Bild hat.

                              Übrigens kann man die LED jetzt auch Softwarseitig abschalten. Danke Reolink, die Argus wird immer etwas besser

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                              • tonliner_53665556469
                                tonliner @der.kohli last edited by


                                tonliner wrote:

                                Hallo @der.kohli

                                Behält die Kamera das Setup, wenn per USB Betrieb
                                der Strom abgeschaltet wird oder muss jedes mal das Setup gemacht werden?


                                Ja, das behält sie natürlich ?

                                Viel Spaß, bevor du deine aber öffnest oder bearbeitest, teste sie. Habe gerade eine die ein unscharfes Bild hat.

                                Übrigens kann man die LED jetzt auch Softwarseitig abschalten. Danke Reolink, die Argus wird immer etwas besser



                                Super und vielen Dank!
                                Das Bild ist wirklich klasse. Habe heute noch eine Argus bestellt.

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                              • Bob_30281727886
                                Bob last edited by

                                Danke für Ihre Unterstützung für Reolink!

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                                • Tommy Hansen_54511533719
                                  Tommy Hansen last edited by

                                  Hallo der.kohli.....

                                  I have tried to connect a 5V/2000mAH Power supply to the hidden USB port, but nothing happens 😞
                                  The camera dont react at all. Did you do anything else?
                                  Or could it be that they changed the new series of cameras? (I got mine delivered in June 2017)

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                                    • der.kohli_43923489157
                                      der.kohli @Tommy Hansen last edited by

                                      Hallo der.kohli…..

                                      I have tried to connect a 5V/2000mAH Power supply to the hidden USB port, but nothing happens ?
                                      The camera dont react at all. Did you do anything else?
                                      Or could it be that they changed the new series of cameras? (I got mine delivered in June 2017)



                                      Hi, I can't say it. I test it at the weekend. It is possible that Reolink this "fixed" with a Software update. 😞

                                      That's not good news, It would be great for the first installation or Softwareupdates.
                                      That use the most energy and with this I save many battery power 😞

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                                    • Tommy Hansen_54511533719
                                      Tommy Hansen last edited by

                                      Hi again
                                      Have now tested with another usb cable and it works perfect 🙂
                                      So where must have been a failure in the first i tried with....
                                      Have one camera connected with a powersupply 5V/700 mAH and it seems to work okay. Do you think one should use powersupply with higher Ampere like the one you have tested with?

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