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Yeah agreed this problem has been around for years... strange though, I had a situation very recently where I needed to check the status of my property remotely due to a burglar alarm notification.. I was on the move and had the reolink open and couldn't connect with 4G at full bars on the phone.. nothing.. then I drifted out to a remote area in the country where I had barely any signal on 3G and it connected so am unsure exactly what the problem with the connection is?
Hi, It's not going to impact the Internet speed if the FTP is local to the Cameras. I use FTP for 4 cameras to record rather than an NVR. Through cost I converted an old junked PC I had laying around to an FTP server and stuck it in the garage and connected back to my internet router via those LAN extenders which use the earth wiring in the house.. no obvious degradation of internet speed from my wifi devices on the same network..
Hi Ron,I think you should be good with C1 Pro, I can't be 100% sure and hopefully the mod will be along to verify your question. I've never used a C1 but from what I've seen the setup looks pretty straight forward although in one installation on youtube the guy had to plug it into an ethernet connection to get it setup on the phone app. However, I can't see why this can't be done remotely at an address where you have access to the ethernet connection and then relocate the device into the property once it's setup on the app.The important thing to make sure is that the UID is checked in the network advanced section of the configuration. It's this feature that allows you to view the camera remotely.. There's a few things you'll need to pay attention to if you don't have access to the wifi router and you're using a shared service in this case. 1. Is the password the shared key for accessing wi-fi or a splash page type of thing like what you get when you try and use wifi in starbucks or whatever.. If it's a splash page it might be a problem.2. Is the bandwidth speed good at the property, if it's a shared service it may be limited. Viewing remotely can be a pain in the arse if the speed available is poor. The reolink has a couple of different viewing qualities that can reduce in this event but it's worth knowing to avoid frustrating lock-ups etc.3. It might be worth running this past the people that service the retirement home.. they must have a technical bod there who could assist. 4. C1 pro has in-built wifi so once setup doesn't need an ethernet.. I hope this helps.. as I've mentioned, I haven't used this camera but hopefully someone with first hand experience will chip in..Cheers
First thing to check is that UID is enabled. From windows client Network Advanced / UID enable check box.
Bit of a trade off this.. I usually set the shutter to around 50ms and turn the gain down to 40 and compensate by adjusting the brightness up a bit. I try and get rid of the blur, you'll also notice that the FPS for night images improves. With it set on auto you only get about 8 FPS but after some tweaking it goes up to about 16 FPS. I find night vision the most challenging aspect of the Reolink cameras. I'm using RLC-411s and RLC-410s..
Hi,Check out this link, number 2 looks good for the job. I haven't tried any of them so don't know how effective they are. These aren't online.. you download the program.. couldn't see anything about file size either.https://www.lifewire.com/free-video-converter-programs-and-online-services-2622867
If you've got the footage out on .264 there's plenty of online converters if you google .264 - MP4 conversion. Just make sure you've got a backup of the original .264 not that the online converter will screw anything up.. just in case..
When the RLC-422W is connected to the router with the ethernet cable it has a specific IP and MAC address. However, once I unplug the ethernet cable and use the camera’s wifi, both the IP AND the MAC address change to a different IP AND a different MAC address. I can see DHCP assigning a new IP but I would never have expected the MAC address to also change.
I think this part of the problem is normal.. my understanding is that each interface has a different mac address whether physical or virtual. for instance, if you had two ethernet ports , you'd have 2 different mac addresses. If you have a single wireless access point with 5 SSIDs broadcast, guest, free-wifi, home, etc etc each of the virtual networks in the one physical box will have a different mac address..
Hi, I use Filezilla as the ftp server on an old windows vista machine.. works a treat,,Here's how my reolink camera is setup to use it.. helps if the cameras and ftp server are on the same subnet.. see how this goes.. CheersScreen-Shot-2017-12-07-at-23.31.19.png
I'm wondering whether Gmail works differently depending on your area? I don't use 2 factor on mine and the email I setup is just for this purpose.. when it wouldn't send it showed the device and a location map that trying to access gmail.. The NVR is about 20 miles away from me in the UK and the map was pretty accurate.. Glad it's working to some degree for you.. cheers
Stephen,I managed to re-create your problem and fix it. Ok, so my mail setting are done via the camera device web browser but I have another system where the cameras sit behind an NVR. When I tried to send from the NVR it failed like yours. The fix is to go into your Gmail account and that's where you need to make sure the device is allowed to send. Login to Gmail from a browser..My accountSign-in securityscroll down to "device activity and notifications"recently used devices, you'll see the device .. review devices and allow access..hopefully that should do it.. In a bit of rush so the instructions are a bit limited but essentially that's where it's being blocked.Cheers
Stephen, Try this... ??????@gmail.com is the sending email accountpassword is for the above email account???????@btinternet.com is the account you want the email to be sent to.all the other settings like the smtp port and server should be set like that for gmail.hopefully that helps.. If it doesn't then i'd check the gmail account you have setup .cheersScreen-Shot-2017-11-30-at-21.57.05.png
Hi Reolink,I haven't been happy with the picture quality since code version 843_17061506 Jun 2017. All of the subsequent releases have a weird hue to the image that just doesn't look natural like the 843_17061506 version. I did contact tech support and they said they made adjustments in the white balance to prevent glare in sunny conditions. The assumption was that you could manually adjust the white balance to get the image nearer the one I liked. having tried this on several occasions I can't get it looking good. The image looks like a broken television from the 1970s where one of the guns has shot leaving the image with a crimson hue to it. How can I compensate this? I want to keep abreast of the current code but have to roll back to the old one because the image quality looks wrong. I'm not fussed about sun glare either, don't get too much sun in the UK at this time of year.Cheers
Hi Jennifer, At a guess, first thing you need to check is that the UID of the camera is added to the camera through the configuration. You can normally do this by the add device at the bottom of the App. I found it easier to use on the windows or mac client. But essentially you need this code (the UID) to be able to view the camera from anywhere other than the local network the camera sits on. This is a good place to start if you're having problems connecting..➢ Manually Enter the UIDSteps:1. Tap to start.2. Tap down on the bottom to type in information.3. Enter the UID of the camera in the UID field, tap “ Done ” on top right tosave the settings.9
Hi Mark,What a great video, really explains your setup well, love the production and use of the inserted zoom windows to highlight the points. Only wish you had put this together around six months ago when I spent a lot of time researching how to install these cameras properly. Coincidentally, I'm using the same PoE source as you and the junction box which seemed the most sensible way to deal with the bunch of cables coming from the camera. A couple of points I'd like to make:1. I noticed inside the junction box you didn't use the locking protective boot on the Ethernet cable connecting to the camera. It may not be necessary where you live if moisture isn't a problem but here in Southern England it's very damp. I read that over time moisture can possibly penetrate the junction box even though its probably IP66/67 rated and this in turn can possibly corrode the pins on both the Ethernet connector and the camera connector. Apparently you'll start to notice data loss if they start to corrode. Putting another end on the cable is not so much of a hassle but Camera side is. To be double sure I used the locking boot and sprayed WD-40 in the box to negate that issue as much as I could just as a precaution as I'm no good up ladders and didn't fancy revisiting the job 2. You mentioned the night vision possibly opening up the shutter. I had to do a lot of trial and error tuning to get it working right for me. From what I can make out the shutter speed doesn't make any difference to day vision but at night it can affect picture quality. One thing I found using a video analysis app was that the FPS in default settings mode fell back from 25FPS to around 8FPS at night when I checked it. I started messing with the shutter speed and found that if you reduce the shutter speed you can get the FPS back up to around 16FPS which helps reduce motion blur and clarity. However, you have to play with some of the other settings because reducing the shutter reduces the light coming into the camera and can increase the noise which is evident by the grainy images. I was looking at using an external light source but haven't got round to it. If you do go that way please share your experience as I think this is the way to go in some situations. Hopefully the spiders that cause me problems hanging out on the camera will be attracted to the secondary source.Cheers.
Haven't tried it but would also like to know if it's possible as I have the same issue. In the absence of an NVR i converted an old PC I had to act as an FTP server.. this works quite well as a backup to the SD card and has more storage.. was thinking of attaching a 1 or 2TB USB drive to increase its size.
Hi David,Apologies, just read your post again and you have stated that Wi-Fi is gone as well so you wouldn't be able to use my suggestion but if you save the config file once you've restored Wi-Fi settings you should be able to import the camera config file.. (I think?) Cheers
Hi David, Not sure what's wrong with the device, I've got 410's and they're ok for me. I'm sure that once you're making changes you're saving the changes to flash afterwards? You could save and export the config so if it loses all the config importing the saved config back in will reduce the amount of effort to restore the camera to its preferred settings.Config > system > maintenance > configuration import / export Hope that helps..
Ok I reckon this problem has been fixed by an IOS client update to 3.3.34.154 which was available this morning. Thanks Reolink for getting the patch out pretty quickly.
Hi, I am having issues connecting over 4G to a variety of cameras in two different locations. Basically it takes an age for the connection succeeded message to complete on the individual cameras. I have checked the 4G connection and it's faster than the broadband I have so shouldn't be an issue, have it tried out and about and getting up to 36Mbps on the 4G but still issues connecting. If I use Wi-Fi it works a lot quicker... are there any known issues with IOS client 3.3.33.145 and 4G connectivity. Everything is configured correctly and it does connect eventually but is useless if you need a quick inspection of the cameras.. Cheers
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