Posts made by email_525317533946102

The SD card videos are fine when downloaded. The NAS drive videos are corrupted when viewing from that drive or after copying them to the computer and viewing them there. They are getting corrupted when they're being written to the NAS drive only. I have the NAS drive for FTP because the computer is not always on.

I need to determine if this is a camera problem or a NAS drive problem first. Does anyone else using FTP on a NAS drive have this problem? It's happening when the videos are being written to the network drive. On playback, they get pixelated and freeze before they end. The SD card videos are fine.

Mine always say they have the current version. I always have to manually check my version against the versions they have available to download. I don't know why they leave that in the settings if it never works.

I always had wifi problems on an RLC-510WA, especially when there was a power failure and the camera and DSL modem/router had to restart. The camera almost never reconnected, and I would have to drive a couple miles to the location to recycle the power on it or plug into the jack and use a hard wired connection to get the wifi reset. I finally ran a cat cable 200 ft. and didn't use the wifi. I've also had wifi problems with the solar model, Argus Eco. It seems weak and loses the connection easily.

If the phone app can tell me with a pop-up on the screen which camera saw motion, why can't it give me a different notification sound for each camera? I would like to know just by the sound that a car has entered my driveway separately from cameras I have at other locations.

I would reflash the firmware, even if it's the same version. When you check, manually check the version you have against the latest version they list. I don't know if yours has a button to click to check but it doesn't work on my mine. It always says it's the latest version so I manually check.

I would like the camera to automatically write to the SD card and at the same time save the same files to a folder on my local network without having to set up an FTP server. I only need an FTP server when the files are transferred over the internet or WAN.

Does anyone know why the cameras don't have the option to save files to a LAN public folder?

A windscreen. It's a problem anytime it's blowing.

On the Windows app, please provide a way to leave the fullscreen view other than just the keyboard. Could you add a right-click or double-click of the mouse to go back to the normal view? I can do everything I need to do in the app with the mouse but I always have to go to the keyboard for that one function.

I complained to them about those brackets. They never hold the cameras tight. I wish they would go back to two set screws. You might be able to take the camera apart just far enough to get to the board and unplug the connectors inside and feed the small connectors through the bracket. It's not likely that the wires are hard wired to the board.

Also, it's OK if the adapter can supply more amps than the cameras need. It just can't be underrated.

Yes, the size is 5.5 x 2.1. I order connectors and wire from ebay and make my own the way I need them or you can search for exactly what you need already made. You could buy a higher amp adapter that provides enough amperage for the total amps of all the cameras or you can connect separate adapters in parallel (negative to negative and positive to positive). Parallel adds the amps but keeps the voltage the same (I assume all your cameras are 12 volt). You don't need any kind of splitter. You'll just splice the wires together. You'll need to look on the label on the camera or the camera's original adapter to know how many amps it uses. If you can't find it there, just do an internet search for the model of the camera and the word specs or specifications. Most stationary, bullet type cameras use 1 amp at 12 volts. The outside of the connector is always the negative and the center pin or hole is positive. Be sure not to use too small of a gauge of wire if it's going to be long and it has several or more amps going through it. There are voltage drop calculators online so you can calculate how much the voltage will drop over a particular distance with a particular number of amps going through the wire. I have cameras 400 ft. away from my house so I use a 28 volt, 3.45 amp power supply and then I use a small 12 volt regulator at the other end of the wire for the camera. The regulator takes 8-40v input and keeps the output at 12 volts.

Very common problem. I have a camera that's protected fairly well from the rain so I taped a wadded up kleenex on the end of a stick and squirted bug killer on it, and then I wiped it around the metal outside of the camera close to the front. You can just spray around the camera as long as you keep it off the front glass and lens. If you have something like eaves or an awning above the camera, spray there and on the bracket, too. All the spiders have to do is step where it has spray. Good spray lasts at least six months.

If I want to replace the antennas on a RLC-510WA with a directional antenna that has one connector, do I need to use a Y adapter so both connectors on the camera are used or can I just make a single connection to one connector and leave the other one open?

These pictures are a truck leaving my driveway today but it didn't record or alert me when the truck arrived a few minutes earlier. The sensitivity is set at 50 and the alarm setting for a vehicle is set at 98, and the delay is set at 1 sec. I don't use object size. How can it miss something that big? This is very discouraging. I bought this camera because driveway alarms are not reliable and I thought a camera would always catch movement. Why did this fail to record or alarm?

Yes, same here. I have to drive to the location with a ladder and a router and extension cord if I don't want to remove the camera and take it down to fix it. Recently, I plugged in a cable just long enough to reach it from the ground so I don't need a ladder, and I bought a USB-C to ethernet adapter so I can plug my phone directly into the camera's RJ45 jack to reset it with my phone's internet.

is this a Windows 11 only problem?

Reolink needs to test these in real life situations with DSL modem/routers by pulling the power plug on everything at once and then plugging everything in at once with other wifi networks in the area and with previous network names connected to the camera. I'm thinking about buying a small 12 volt lithium battery UPS just to keep the camera powered when there's an outage.