Posts made by Chopstix

@user_620089981972582_620089981972582 I am sure you have, but I will ask... did you make sure to turn ON the daisy chain setting?

@techgirl_849769519804666 thank you! Cheers!

@joseph_1979 Please let me know what they say. Cheers.

@joseph_1979 I did not make any changes to the band preference setting up until I attempted to switch to 2.4 GHz. I do recall it listing 5 GHz not Auto when I opened the page in the app. Definitely a bug then as it should not matter what option is selected. If you switch the setting, the camera should switch.

@Techgirl_849769519804666 what's up with the down vote on my comment above? If there is something about it that concerns you, please allow me the opportunity to address it. Thanks!

@joseph_1979 haha. Yeah, that's pretty much how it went.

@joseph_1979 let me clarify...

When I initially setup the doorbell months ago, I had the choice of 2.4 or 5 during the setup. Naturally, I chose 5 GHz. After deployment I noticed the signal meter (you and I already discussed how lacking this is) displayed 1-2 bars signal. I left it alone to see if there were performance issues. It was fine for several weeks then began to sporadically disconnect several times a day, but not every day.

Fast forward to this week, I decided to use the app and switch the preferred band to 2.4GHz because as we know, 2.4GHz has better wall penetration. Yes, the HHP should have automatically given the doorbell the 2.4GHz SSID/password during the switch. I don't know what exactly went wrong as the doorbell was not able to reconnect to the HHP after the switch. Without adequate network management tools in the HHP, I was unable to troubleshoot other than a reboot of both the doorbell and the HHP. I had to factory reset the doorbell and run the setup again, this time choosing the 2.4GHz SSID.

I have not tried switching back to 5 GHz as a test as I really do not want to factory reset again if the switch fails. I do not know if this was an isolated incident or a persistent bug but I thought it worth documenting.

@joseph_1979 IIRC, he spoke to support about this already and got nowhere with them. It reminds me of a doorbell issue I had with 2-ways comms... support was able to reproduce it but did not see a problem with it even though it made 2-way comms via the doorbell almost unusable.

@user_901203979997352_901203979997352 I agree. A doorbell 'ring' event and motion events need to have the ability to have separate schedules for BOTH Home Hub notifications and push notifications. I also would like to have 'ring' notifications 24x7 with only motion events triggering in the evening hours.

The more people that add comments to this thread showing interest, the better the chances that Reolink will implement the change.

@user_901203979997352_901203979997352 agreed, ring and motion notifications should have separate schedules for both Home Hub alerting as well as push notifications. While this won't help for push notifications, you can get a Reolink Chime that can serve as your 24/7 'ring' sound and then set the schedule based on monition events for the Home Hub. However, this only works if Reolink has updated the battery doorbell firmware to support simultaneous connections to a chime and a Home Hub. Currently (unless FW has been released) the battery doorbell can only connect to a chime -OR- to a Home Hub, not both.

EDIT: I removed your post from the Wish List as it comes across looking like a duplicate to this post. If you'd like a Wish List post, please post a new one that is simplified and direct with what you are asking for and then cross-reference to this post for more information. This will help avoid cluttering Wish List posts with community help responses. Thank you.

Even though my Wi-Fi doorbell is literally 1 wall/floor away from my Home Hub Pro, it only gets 2-bars on the 5 GHz signal meter. With sporadic disconnects several times a day, I finally decided to switch it to 2.4 GHz.

I went into the app, to the camera's Wi-Fi settings and switched it to 2.4 GHz. The app did not ask me for a network name or password. I assume because the camera is connected to the Home Hub Pro's 5 GHz radio, it SHOULD know to switch it to the HHP's 2.4 GHz radio.

Well, the camera did not want to reconnect. Rebooted the camera and the HHP, no dice. So I ultimately had to factory reset the doorbell and connect it to the HHP's 2.4 GHz during the initial setup. Good new is, it's showing 4 bars on the signal now.

So it makes me wonder if there is a firmware bug since it did not automatically switch from the HHP's 5 GHz to 2.4 GHz nor did it ask me for new network SSID/password when switching. Hmmm.

@fireflynj_236912991023352 the camera that does not have it, do you have another of the same model that does?

@user_917140252860649_917140252860649 can you shoot a video of what is happening and post it here? Maybe I am not wrapping my head around what you have going on. Either way, Reolink support is going to likely ask you for a video anyhow. You reach them by summitting a trouble ticket via their support page.

@kevinkss give as an update when you can. Cheers.

@joseph_1979 I have run into this as well, fortunately we get a good amount of wildlife running across the far edge of the FOV so it has not been an issue. I was actually surprised when I saw the scheduled reboot option... why? Why does it need to reboot? Memory leak? Reminds me of Windows NT 3.51 Server back in the day.

Anyhow, I can't imagine that Reolink is not aware of this. It would be nice if they gave an option NOT to reboot the Wi-Fi processor.

@reolink-oskar I plan on adding one of these to supplement my doorbell camera at some point.

@kevinkss from while I have no experience with your specific cellular router, I can tell you that in general they do not have tremendous range as they are meant as close proximity hotspots. Pair that with being enclosed in a metal trailer, you're really clipping the range. 2 bars at 100-ft I'd say is actually pretty good given the environment.

My suggestion for your next job, turn your router's Wi-Fi antenna (if possible) OFF and put a wireless access point on top of the trailer with a direct ethernet connection to the router inside the trailer. And then if needed, drop Wi-Fi repeaters/mesh points no more than 75-ft away (less if indoors) from one another if using wireless backhaul. If you have the ability to homerun ethernet drops back to the cellular router, you can put them out as far as 328-ft as long as the clients that need Wi-Fi access can still get 80-100% signal from them.

@joseph_1979 very good. Then we are in agreement with that wired backhaul will be the preferred method. I would also like to see the OP check the Wi-Fi connection from camera 2 to the AP as he states he is only getting two bars. Forcing 2.4GHz may improve that.

@joseph_1979 there is mixed info on the RE715X supporting a wired backhaul. Google AI says it does but there are users on the TP-Link Community indicating that it is not supported. From my experience, the Ethernet port on standalone repeaters is for a client device only which I suspect is the case with the 715. Maybe I am wrong, but I can not find conclusive info on the web.

Unless I am understanding incorrectly, the OP states that one Wi-Fi camera connects to the router and works just fine. The problem is with the camera connected via the repeater. So I am thinking it is more of a wireless repeating issue than a bandwidth issue.

@jeankok_709237676638430 I have a HHP but to be honest, I have never tried connecting directly to a display via HDMI. I have always just used the Reolink PC client. The HHP was designed around residential use so it seems reasonable that the focus in on app-based access, not direct interaction. That is speculation only. If I get the chance to drag a TV/monitor over to where I have my HHP tucked away, I will check it out myself unless someone else can chime in with first-hand experience.

@kevinkss just for clarity, repeaters are only as good as their connection to the previous hop. Looks like the 715 does not support wired backhaul so I am assuming its connection to your router is wireless as well. What make/model is your router? Is it a TP-LINK also? Are you setting up as a wireless mesh? Make sure you have the 2.4/5/6 GHz bands names differently then on the camera, see if your firmware has the option to specify 2.4GHz as it will have better wall penetration than the higher bands. I understand that it is the next room, but wall materials and other environmental factors will affect performance. If your camera does not, you may need to factory reset and see if you can specify the 2.4GHz network during setup.