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Could you be more specific about how you "configured the routers" to allow traffic from one sub-net to the other?(I enjoy the minutia of networking, but have not reached any significant degree of expertise.)My naive understanding is that when a device wants to send packets to an IP address that is on the same sub-net, it does an ARP request to get the MAC address of the device. Then, it sends packets directly to that MAC address. When the IP is not on the same sub-net, it sends those packets to the MAC address of the gateway device, which then knows which router port knows where to find that IP. So, your Windows machine says, "I want 192.168.2.x, and sends that packet to 192.168.1.1, which knows where to find 192.168.2.x" If your Windows machine had a sub-net mask of 255.255.0.0, it would say, "192.168.2.x is on my sub-net, so I'll do an ARP request to find its MAC address. Once I get the MAC address, I'll address my packets to it." But, nobody answers the ARP request, because ARP requests don't go across routers.Have you tried setting your Windows machine mask to 255.255.0.0, and you can still communicate with the camera on the other sub-net?Or, have I just displayed horrible ignorance?p.s. I agree that it seems reasonable that people might want to connect their NVR to cameras on a different LAN.
I do not know of any 3rd party apps that will work with Reolink cameras. Have you considered this:Power the Reolink camera with a "Smart Plug". Several companies sell devices that plug into a wall outlet and turn their own outlet "on" and "off" according to schedules or events you set up. The TP-Link Mini WiFi Smart Plug says that you can set up a schedule to turn things on and off. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543884955&sr=8-3&keywords=tp-link+smart+plug. The user manual on page 7 talks about setting up schedules for when it turns on and off. TP-Link's "Kasa" system allows you to group plugs into "scenes" and have a bunch of them do things together (like four cameras). They also claim to interface with IFTTT (If This Then That) which might allow you to turn them all on when you leave the house and off when you return.I've glanced at reviews of Smart Plugs and people seem to think some have more or better features in one area or another.I do not own any Smart Plugs (yet), so I have no experience with how they work (or what about them drives people crazy).Anyway, you could try one for under $20 and see if it is useful.
The RLC-410W product page claims it works with Reolink NVR's. (Down at the bottom of the page.) The NVR product page mentions numerous cameras, none of which are WiFi models, but it also says, "etc."I downloaded the NVR User Manual. The zip file includes manuals for several types of NVR's. On page 23 of the PoE manual, it says the NVR can detect cameras connected to the NVR's PoE ports and also cameras connected to the same router sub-net as the NVR.So, my guess is "yes". Before making an order, I would email "support@reolink.com" with your question. They answer pretty quickly and seem to know their products.
That is so cool. Thanks for explaining. Sorry that you bought a product that doesn't work for this purpose. Reolink sells solid hardware at an attractive price. Software development is not their strong suit. Good luck finding what other ski sites use.
What an interesting project. We used to put some outdoor cameras on our website so all the employees who had no windows could see what was going on outside (weather, foot traffic, etc.) Of course, our web server and the cameras were on the same internal network. My guess is that your web server is "hosted" somewhere. Reliance on Flash is one of Reolink's major obstacles to overcome, and they don't seem to be making any progress in that direction.I was wondering what the purpose of having a camera stream on a corporate website is. Don't see many with that.
I'm a bit confused. Question 2 seems to indicate that you know the answer to question 1. Please forgive me if this response is not what you are asking for.Reolink Windows client 7.2.2.20. Click on the Gear Icon in the upper right corner (see attachment GearIcon). This opens a box with two tabs. Tab 1 has locations for the Capture and Download files. (see attachment Box1). Tab 2 has location for the Recordings. (see attachment Box 2). In the middle of Box 2 is a selection to open up a typical Reolink "schedule" panel. (see attachment Box3).In my case, I left these disk locations set to the defaults (C:Capture, C:DownloadFile, C:RecordFile) I do not typically use these functions because I use FTP to transfer recordings directly from my cameras to an FTP server and then use VLC Media Player to look through them later. (I also have a Windows script that runs every night to delete files that are "too short" to be of any use.)Just to experiment, I opened the Reolink client, which opened my three cameras, and I clicked on the "Capture" icon in the lower left. Sure enough, three pictures appeared in C:Capture with titles like "Preview_camera-name_date.... Then, I clicked on the movie camera icon and saw the red recording icon appear in each window. Sure enough, inside C:RecordFile, there appeared a folder "11162018", and inside that folder are three mp4 files, one for each camera.I believe when the viewing window is in "Playback Mode", the "capture" icon inside each camera window takes a snapshot of whatever recording is being viewed. The floppy disk icon brings up a list of all of the motion recordings for the day. Selecting them causes them to be copied to C:DownloadFile.That's question 1 the way I understand it.Question 2 is more difficult. Maybe you are looking at a different folder than the one defined. Sometimes I get annoyed with Windows Folders when I change something and it doesn't look like it "happened." Then I have to "View... Refresh" to update the screen. Maybe the folder with today's date is there and will appear if you close the C:RecordFile and reopen it.I waited a couple of hours before responding, hoping that someone who "knows things" would have the answer. Sorry if my contribution isn't helpful.The Download folder is used to copy entire motion files to the hard drive. Clicking on the Gear-Icon-1.jpgBox1-1.jpgBox2-1.jpgBox3-1.jpg
I'm a bit confused. Question 2 seems to indicate that you know the answer to question 1. Please forgive me if this response is not what you are asking for.Reolink Windows client 7.2.2.20. Click on the Gear Icon in the upper right corner (see attachment GearIcon). This opens a box with two tabs. Tab 1 has locations for the Capture and Download files. (see attachment Box1). Tab 2 has location for the Recordings. (see attachment Box 2). In the middle of Box 2 is a selection to open up a typical Reolink "schedule" panel. (see attachment Box3).In my case, I left these disk locations set to the defaults (C:Capture, C:DownloadFile, C:RecordFile) I do not typically use these functions because I use FTP to transfer recordings directly from my cameras to an FTP server and then use VLC Media Player to look through them later. (I also have a Windows script that runs every night to delete files that are "too short" to be of any use.)Just to experiment, I opened the Reolink client, which opened my three cameras, and I clicked on the "Capture" icon in the lower left. Sure enough, three pictures appeared in C:Capture with titles like "Preview_camera-name_date.... Then, I clicked on the movie camera icon and saw the red recording icon appear in each window. Sure enough, inside C:RecordFile, there appeared a folder "11162018", and inside that folder are three mp4 files, one for each camera.I believe when the viewing window is in "Playback Mode", the "capture" icon inside each camera window takes a snapshot of whatever recording is being viewed. The floppy disk icon brings up a list of all of the motion recordings for the day. Selecting them causes them to be copied to C:DownloadFile.That's question 1 the way I understand it.Question 2 is more difficult. Maybe you are looking at a different folder than the one defined. Sometimes I get annoyed with Windows Folders when I change something and it doesn't look like it "happened." Then I have to "View... Refresh" to update the screen. Maybe the folder with today's date is there and will appear if you close the C:RecordFile and reopen it.I waited a couple of hours before responding, hoping that someone who "knows things" would have the answer. Sorry if my contribution isn't helpful.The Download folder is used to copy entire motion files to the hard drive. Clicking on the Gear-Icon.jpgBox1.jpgBox2.jpgBox3.jpg
Oh, dear. Reolink cameras that are powered support lots of interface standards. In addition to Reolink's Windows, Mac, Android, & Apple applications, regular web browsers can connect directly to the cameras, and they also support streaming standards. The battery-powered cameras can be accessed ONLY with Reolink's software. The battery cameras simply do not have the "power" (humor) to run all that software.I think what you are attempting is impossible.
One of my biggest disappointments with Reolink's RLC cameras is how flying insects are attracted to the IR LED's and trigger motion events. Up close to the camera lens, a bug appears to be BIG and BRIGHT (totally white). Have to turn off email notifications because insects generate hundreds. SD card fills up quickly. I deal with it a bit by FTPing files and using a script to erase any file that has only one second of motion. Personally, it seems to me that the camera firmware could be programmed to (a) ignore any motion less than a certain number of seconds, or (b) ignore motion caused by something so bright. I fear that Reolink doesn't actually create firmware for the cameras. Anyway, it doesn't look like any solution coming soon.So.... I purchased a separate "IR illuminator" and mounted it about 8 feet away from the Reolink camera, but where it covered the same general area. Since my RLC-410WS cameras do not have software control of the IR LED's, I masked off the LED's with tape (leaving the light sensor at the bottom uncovered). Ta-Da! No more insect triggers.There are dozens of inexpensive IR lights. Mine is a Tendlux purchased from Amazon for $20. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I read an interesting review of the light on a web site: https://networkcameratech.com/tendelux-ai4-ir-illuminator-review. I figured, "what's the down side?" For $20 I can see what happens. Turns out it worked.Is this the solution for everyone? Don't know. For me, I was able to increase the nighttime sensitivity and now record the cats, possums, etc. who come through that part of the yard. But NO FLYING INSECTS.
Just to confirm what Brad reported: Reolink support confirms that yes, the Reolink client software searches for Reolink devices on the network by broadcasting UDP packets. Brad reported broadcasts with port 2000. My Wireshark capture seemed to indicate that the first broadcast was to port 2000 and the remaining broadcasts were to port 2018. (I did not keep it running very long.)I know of no way to tell the client software not to search for devices.This appears (to me) to be inconsistent with the whole process of "Add Device" and "Remove Device" (the trash can icon). Maybe the software searches for ANY device on the network that responds to UDP broadcasts on port (2000 or 2018), but it only displays the devices which have been "added". I guess the test would be to put a new Reolink camera on the network and see if the software finds it before it has been "added".What did Brad learn from support?
When you get a resolution, please post an update here. I just used Wireshark to capture packets on my PC when I started the Reolink client software (Windows). Sure enough, there is a constant stream of UDP packets, in my case to 255.255.255.255 port 2018 (not 2000). I notice that the source port increments by one each time, although the destination port remains 2018.Looks like it is hoping "somebody is listening" for a UDP broadcast and will respond with "I'm at IP address xx.xx.xx.xx" Maybe looking for a Reolink NVR?
Could you please clarify a few points?1. You say "at first...". Does that mean that the camera in this position DID recognize people coming to the door, but NOW it does not? In other words, the same camera in the same position behaved one way at first, and now behaves differently? If so, it might be worth cleaning the front of the camera. Perhaps the PIR sensor is dirty.2. What is the distance from the camera (a) to the front door and (b) to the far end of the sidewalk? 3. You mention recording someone as they "step down" to the sidewalk. PIR sensors appear to have difficulty recognizing movement "toward" the camera and are more capable with movement "across" the picture. RLC cameras which have constant power record continuously, and when motion is detected they can record starting 5 seconds before the motion begins. Battery operated cameras, like the Argus (and Netgear's Arlo), do not begin recording until motion is detected. Thus, the camera might not detect motion as a person comes up the sidewalk, detect motion when they step up and move across the picture, and then begin recording as the person turns around and steps down back to the sidewalk. Scanning user forums, I see a lot of complaints that battery cameras "miss the event" because, for example, the UPS delivery person walks up, drops a package, walks off, and THEN the camera starts recording.4. You have more than one Argus 2 camera. If you change to a different camera, does it also behave the same way?(I thought installing security cameras was going to be quick and easy. It has been neither, but I'm glad I kept at it. Good Luck!)
Alas, I fear your suggestion will be impossible to implement. PIR devices are cheap, self-contained devices, manufactured by the millions. They appear in things as cheap as a $7 nightlight. The reason they are included in battery operated security cameras is the low cost and the low current drain. Seriously, one AA battery can power a PIR sensor for nearly a year.PIR's work by detecting when Infrared intensity changes from one sector to another. That's why they do pretty well when something moves "across" the camera, and significantly less well when something moves "toward" the camera.Having low, medium, high settings is about all that can be done.Doubt that I'm wrong, and would be VERY happy if Reolink says, "we can do that!"
It might help people offer suggestions if you identify
I also support a change to the Reolink App in regards to PIR control of battery powered cameras. While "better than nothing", scheduling PIR on/off one camera at a time falls short. Most of the time, I want to record any time someone comes to the door or into my back yard, even if I am home at the time. (Proof that UPS actually delivered like they say they did, for example.) However, there are occasions when we are in and out dozens of times, like doing yard work, sitting on the porch watching hummingbirds, etc. etc. That generates dozens of alarms, recordings, emails, etc. and EATS UP BATTERY.Yes, I can open the Reolink app. Connect to one camera. Turn off PIR. Connect to another camera. Turn off PIR. etc. etc. Then, when I want detection again. Open the App. Connect to first camera. Turn on PIR. Connect to next camera. Turn on PIR. etc. etc. Blech!What I would like is an option on the Reolink App that says:Turn off PIR on (this list of cameras) until: I turn it back on, or n minutes or hours from now. (60 minutes = one hour, so 300 minutes = five hours)Open the App, click the button, and PIR is off (and might come back on automatically).Other products offer "geofencing", which turns motion detection on when my mobile phone leaves the area and turns detection back on when it returns. Many people would find that useful, and I wouldn't mind if it was one of the options. In my particular case, I'd rather have "one click".
It may help people respond if you can give a more detailed explanation of what the housing is intended to accomplish. As you have already discovered, Reolink bullet cameras are weather resistant and are designed to be mounted to a structure so that the power/communication/reset cable will pass through the mounting bracket and into the structure. Protective housings seem to be designed around people using common indoor CCTV cameras. (Really expensive housings provide heating or cooling, but that seems like overkill for a $60 camera.)Reolink users have put cameras in a lot of places, so there is a good chance that someone has come up with a solution that might work for you. So, what do you need that the camera does not provide?
(It's just my opinion, but) Yes, you have the wrong camera. Except for the battery-operated Argus line, all Reolink cameras detect motion by "how many pixels changed". The sensitivity setting allows you to require more (or less) pixel change to trigger "motion." If you search through the posts, this is one of the biggest frustrations of Reolink users. If you've already "blacked out" all of the screen except for critical areas, you're screwed.Some of the instances that people mention are: (1) insects which are drawn to the infrared LED's and appear "really bright" as they fly rapidly close to and past the camera. They are gone in a flash, but they are "motion." (2) When the camera changes from "day" to "night" mode, ALL of the pixels "change", so the camera triggers motion. (3) when plants rustle in the wind or tree shadows move quickly in the wind. and (4) when auto headlights go by or shine off of an object. I have reported these issues as have many others.My recommendation to Reolink was to allow the user to specify "how long" motion has to continue before it will trigger recording. i.e. if something "moves" for less than one second, I don't care about it. (or 2, 3, 4 seconds. Let me pick.) That would eliminate most of the frustration. If the UPS driver can walk to my door, place a package, and get out of range in less than 2 seconds, then I won't record it. Oh, well.)Changing how the camera software detects motion is not a trivial programming effort. I suspect that Reolink may not have created the camera software themselves. My guess is the reason Reolink cameras are inexpensive relative to other brands is that they are "integrators" of off-the-shelf components and have very low overhead. Thus, they may not have the resources to rewrite complicated parts of the camera firmware.PIR motion detectors are not perfect, either. They have definite range limitations and do not detect something moving directly toward the camera as well as they do something moving "across" the camera. Personally, I'd like to see a camera with BOTH pixel and PIR motion detection, although I have never seen such a camera for sale.
WiFi issues are affected by so many factors that it is hard to predict what can be done to improve them. For example, I moved the base station for my wireless home security system six inches and suddenly the keypad reported "out of range". Moved it back, and the base station is OK. Six inches! I don't see how installing antennas designed for 2.4GHz could harm the camera. It's not expensive to perform an experiment. Amazon sells a package of two antennas for under $15US: https://www.amazon.com/TECHTOO-AntennaSince Reolink's cameras with external WiFi antennas require power, you could also try a pair of PowerLine adapters to extend your WiFi network. Zyxel (Powerline AC900,1000 Mbps Wireless Extender [PLA5236KIT] is one example.) That experimente would cost about $50US. Of course, PowerLine has its own complications. The units must match the electrical outlets, which are different in many countries.Solving WiFi problems is not simple. Good Luck!
The short answer is, "yes." Reolink WiFi cameras have standard SMA connectors and will accept standard WiFi antennas with SMA connectors.The long answer is, "It's complicated" for a LOT of reasons.A different omnidirectional antenna is not going turn the WiFi signal from "one bar" into "five bars". Reolink does not specify the antenna gain on their products. Typical consumer antennas are 3dB, and typical "high gain" antennas are 6-7dB. A difference of 3dB antenna gain results in twice the signal. It also matters whether you are connecting at 2.4GHz or 5GHz. The antenna you get has to support the frequency band you are using. It's won't help to purchase a high gain 2.4GHz antenna if you want to connect at 5GHz.Antennas with higher gain tend to be longer, which may affect where you can mount the camera. (They are also typically black, whereas Reolink outdoor cameras are white.)There are "patch" and "Yagi" antennas which have higher gain, but they have to be aimed directly at the WiFi router and mounting them is a chore. Reolink cameras use two multi-band antennas, whereas most inexpensive WiFi security cams use only a single 2.4GHz antenna. So, replacing Reolink antennas requires two. (I actually run one of my Reolink WiFi cameras with a single antenna because turning it past about 60 degrees to the side made the antenna bump into the mount. I think they "cheaped out" by using the same camera mount for WiFi cameras as they did for regular bullet cameras.)Sometimes, moving the camera will result in a better signal. WiFi does not penetrate things like refrigerators, AC duct work, metal garage doors, etc. Stucco walls can be a problem.My next door neighbor found that two of his security cameras did not get good WiFi signal, so he purchased inexpensive extension 2.4GHz WiFi antennas from Amazon that came with an extension cable. He was able to run the cable through his wall. With the antennas inside, he got a better signal inside the house than he did outside.The alternative to changing camera antennas is to extend the WiFi signal. There are a zillion ways and products that accomplish this. Google topics like "extend WiFi signal" and "Wifi signal booster."In my own case, I installed an old WiFi access point using PowerLine to improve the signal to three of my cameras.Sorry if this isn't helpful. Good Luck!
You are correct in your analysis. A bright light or IR illuminator from another camera that is directly visible to a camera will adversely affect the image. Your camera needs to be pointed down and to the right. That will take the other camera out of the picture as well as the reflection from the white eaves. You would not lose any useful coverage, and would actual gain some more useful coverage. I have seen advice from Reolink about how to position cameras for night vision, but (alas) cannot find a link to it right now. There is an excellent article on the web about night vision at https://networkcameratech.com/10-ways-to-improve-security-camera-night-vision.
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