Posts made by Crimp On_62210811129

Oh, yes. I understand that opening the case completely voids the warranty. I am pretty sure that powering my Argus using a USB cord through the test port also voids the warranty. I was totally frustrated at having to restrict the Argus hours of operation to keep from spending a fortune on batteries. Now, I can watch and record all I want.

Will be interesting to see what is inside.

Does anybody happen to have pictures of the "insides" of the RLC-410 camera? i.e. with the case off?
I am looking at a project to make a different housing to conceal the camera, which means removing the case and mounting bracket and getting rid of the LED's. (Yes, I know this voids the warranty.) If I "felt lucky", I would just purchase one and take it apart. Would be convenient to see what it looks like before spending the money.

Oh, my. This is certainly not good. My network router is set up to hand out specific IP's to most devices using DHCP. That way, I have the convenience of knowing which IP goes with which device, but have the flexibility to change them if I want to. For example, I FTP motion files to a server which allows only certain IP's to connect.

On my RLC-410WS cameras, using Reolink Windows client, I can erase individual "squares" of motion detection area, or erase the entire screen. Which cameras and which app are you using?

If the camera works when IP address is provided by DHCP and fails when set to static, then some part of the static address setup is incorrect. For successful networking, ALL parameters are essential (IP address, network mask, gateway, etc.) Have you tried setting the static IP to

exactly

Yes, the camera is supposed to automatically connect to WiFi when power is restored. My cameras do this after a power outage (or a reset). My first guess is that something about the WiFi connection was not "saved". I sometimes get in a hurry when changing things on my Reolink cameras and click "close" (the X in the corner) instead of "OK". It is good that you are testing before climbing a ladder to install the camera.

If you press a paperclip into the reset hole long enough, it will "reset to factory settings" which means you have to set the camera up from scratch.

Not that I have found. It bugs me that it is grammatically incorrect. "The program is shut down. Do you want to continue?" HA. It should read, "Do you really want to close the program?" Obviously, the program is NOT "shut down" (yet).

I agree an option to close immediately without confirmation is something a lot of us would appreciate.

I have not done a firmware update recently, and I just now confirmed that my Reolink RLC410-WS and Argus cameras do not respond to telnet. "Connection refused." No chance to log in or anything. Do not have a C1 camera, so have no idea if there was a vulnerability in that model.

I have never heard of a security camera (Wi-Fi or not) that has a 120v plug. EVERY camera is powered either using a "Wall Wart" adapter or over the Ethernet cable (PoE). This is what makes the battery powered cameras so attractive. (What makes them NOT attractive is the way they eat up batteries, cannot do constant monitoring, and lack many features.)

There are companies making floodlights with security camera built in (not Reolink). If you have not made a huge investment in Reolink, you might want to look around before getting in too deep.

For me, cost of the camera is not the major factor in adding more security cameras. It is "how the heck can I get power/signal to that location?"

I am not 100% certain that the RLC-422W would even mount to a standard electrical box.

My RLC cameras that are mounted externally have the Ethernet and Reset cords hanging inside the wall. ONLY the power cord goes through the wall.

The RLC-410 can ignore motion in areas that have "too much", like passing traffic.
It's the grid under "Sensitivity". If you block out the picture except for right around the mailbox, you should get motion only when someone enters that specific area. The "pre" and "post" record would capture walking up to the mailbox, walking away, etc. I have not had much success reading license plates, although my cameras are 30+ feet away from the street.

You did a great job documenting this situation. I agree that both cameras should detect motion and record. Have you posed this question to support@reolink.com? In my experience, it takes some time to get a response from them (in Hong Kong), but they are pretty good.

Just AMAZING. Thanks for sharing the link to your live feed.

Way cool. And, you have "ant traps" under the hive to keep them away from the honey!

This may not affect you, but I had MAJOR problems with my RLC-410WS cameras recording constantly because the IR LED's would make any insect flying close to the lens look SO BRIGHT that it would trigger a motion event. I wound up mounting a separate IR light six feet away and covering up the IR LED's on my RLC camera. (I guess you can avoid that by setting the recording schedule to "never". NEVER MIND!)

This looks like a question for support@reolink.com, or maybe whoever put up the link that you followed.

Do you have the latest firmware? All of these cameras have the same basic hardware platform, with firmware specific to the camera model. (Reolink's "Support->Download" page)

These are pretty hefty devices to be attaching to a beehive. Is there not a tiny color spy camera that will wire into the Pi that will be controlling the light?

On the "Advanced" options page, under "Email", you can set the RLC camera to send an email notice that motion has been recorded and attach a picture. I am not aware of any method to FTP a single image. This will result in an email every 10 minutes (six per hour).

Frankly, I have no idea if the camera will shift from black & white to color mode before the image is collected. Do the bees care if it is dark or light inside the hive?

This may not be the right product for what you want to do.

My response was perhaps too short. I worked in computers and telecommunications and was responsible for installation of thousands of network outlets as we completely rewired a college campus two times. We also purchased (literally) thousands and thousands of Ethernet patch cords. In all those years, the ONLY time shielded cable was installed was when a contractor wiring a new building "got a good deal" on some shielded cable. We made him pull it all out and reinstall with unshielded cable that met the specifications.

Most Ethernet cable is not shielded. There is no need for shielding because of the "twist" in the pairs of wire.

Ironically, my old Argus battery cameras are NOT recording constantly. The "RLC" and "C1" cameras are build on a single hardware platform (IPC_3816M). They all got a new firmware release. I have been awaiting "progress" in a number of areas and installed the new firmware. Alas, this new development is disappointing.

So, different hardware platform. Almost everything is different between the RLC and battery models (motion sensing, LED control, underlying operating system, etc.).

I actually set my battery cameras to not email me about motion during the day because the constant pings were annoying. Ironically, I have them set to trigger only at night.

Installed the new firmware for RLC-410WS cameras on Feb 3. Starting the evening of Feb 3, and every night since then, my three cameras record almost constantly from about 11:45 at night until about 4:00am the next morning. Each motion file is about 102MB (two minutes). When I watch the motion files, I cannot see ANYTHING that resembled "motion." I am (sadly) fully aware that very small and very quick motions can trigger a recording. i.e. a tiny insect flying past the camera lens at night appears VERY bright because it is illuminated by the LED's. Even 1/2sec is enough. Rain drops falling past the eaves, etc. I am used to counting off five seconds and seeing that tiny flicker which set off the camera. With these recordings, I see NOTHING MOVE.

The only thing that has changed is the firmware. Has anyone else noticed a change in camera behavior? Reolink support obviously was not told to expect questions about the new firmware, so they have no advice except the standard "How to avoid..." I guess now I get to lower the sensitivity setting one notch each day until this behavior quits.

Very annoying.